photo of the Ten Tec Triton IV powered for the first time

Epic Restoration of a Ten Tec Triton IV – part 1

This site contains affiliate links. Please read Disclaimer for more information.

Getting a Ten Tec Triton IV

eBay has provided a lot of entertainment (and used equipment!) over the last few months, and after the purchase and restoration of a Ten Tec Century 21, I started looking for a Triton IV. As I mentioned in an earlier post, this was the first radio I purchased new in 1978. I really enjoyed that radio and wanted to own one again. It didn’t take long. I ended up having two in the shop at almost the same time — one for my shack, and one for a fellow ham. He wanted me to check it out before he even saw it. As you’ll see, I ended up doing a pretty complete restoration.

photo of The radio safely delivered
The radio safely delivered

It arrived packed in a single layer of thin bubble wrap surrounded by a few styrofoam peanuts. It was shipped in a box that was barely bigger than the radio. I breathed a sigh of relief when I got a look inside and saw that the radio had made it undamaged. There were no crushed corners, and it was fine. Double boxing would have been much better.

First Evaluation

photo of the Ten Tec Triton IV with added power switch and mic hanger
Added power switch and mic hanger

The radio itself was a little rough. It had obviously been used mobile, and the former owner had a power switch mounted in a plastic box and screwed to the side of the radio. Functional, but not pretty.

Ten Tec’s Weird Power Switch

Why an outboard power switch? Early Ten Tec radios didn’t really have a way to switch 12-volt power. Instead, they provided a power switch on the volume control that was intended to control a 120-volt accessory power supply through a 4-wire power cable. Because the radio can draw as much as 20 amps at 12-volts, and the internal power switch was rated at much less than that, Ten Tec recommended an outboard power switch or external 12-volt relay that could be controlled by the internal switch.

photo of the nicotine and Sharpie patina
A patina of nicotine and Sharpie

Besides the holes in the plastic sides from the switch box, markings had been added in Sharpie to the front panel and some kind of label or name plate had been glued to the top cover. The heat sink had lost much of its black paint, and there was a sheen of nicotine visible on the front panel. I’ll discuss the cosmetic restoration in a later blog post.

photo of The back panel with Flakey paint
The back panel with Flakey paint

A Diamond in the Rough

photo of the CW Filter installed (to the left of the speaker)
CW Filter installed (to the left of the speaker)

The good news was that the radio seemed to receive and transmit just fine. Even better, it had the optional CW filter installed. Surprisingly, it did  not have the noise blanker option — that would have been helpful with ignition noise and in the mobile. The receiver seemed sensitive, and the transmitter made 100 watts of power on all bands. Not a bad start.

It did exhibit the sluggish and nearly frozen Permeability Tuned Oscillator (PTO) problem though. The main tuning knob would turn, but with difficulty. I didn’t want to try tuning the radio until this was fixed.

The ever-popular frozen PTO

photo of The PTO
The PTO

These early Ten Tec radios are well known for the sluggish or frozen main tuning knob. The recommended fix is to disassemble the PTO, clean out the gummy grease, install a “PTO rebuild kit” and lubricate it with new grease. It’s a challenging process that I described in an earlier post, but the rebuild kits are no longer available from Ten Tec. Hoping to avoid a PTO rebuild, I decided to try a fix recommended on one of the Ten Tec user sites. One comment in the thread suggested dissolving the congealed grease with denatured alcohol applied to the inner and outer shafts. it then recommends turning them until they free up and applying a drop or two of Tri-Flow lubricant to the same parts. I decided to try it,  but with the PTO outside of the radio to gain access to all the greased surfaces. After a couple of applications of the Trl-Flow to several points within the PTO, it did indeed move freely. Not bad.

Testing the Triton IV in the Shack

With the PTO problem resolved, I decided to reassemble the radio and use it for a while. I like to spend time with a radio before making further repairs or alignments because there are often problems that one only discovers with use. So for now, I was done. In the next installment, we’ll tackle the cosmetic improvements to the Triton IV.

8 Replies to “Epic Restoration of a Ten Tec Triton IV – part 1”

  1. This was a great post! Thanks for taking the time to put this out there. On another note, I have a Older Ham (W2GLN) that’s looking for a Control board “Control Board 80193” for his beloved Ten Tec Triton II. I’ve kind of run out of leads here. If you have any idea where I can find one for him your time would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance for any help.
    73
    KE4CDR
    Keith Everett
    keverett458429@gmail.com

    1. Thanks. I’m glad you enjoyed it. Stay tuned for a follow-up post on the cosmetic upgrades. With respect to the Triton II Control board, I would suggest both eBay and swap.qth.com. Be patient. I’ve seen all kinds of Ten Tec parts on both services. I’ve got an automatic notification set up on eBay for Ten Tec in general and that helps. I did look at both just now, and although there are lots of Ten Tec parts currently listed (pull-outs from other radios), I didn’t see the specific board your friend is looking for. Incidentally, I posted an a Triton II restoration a few months ago. https://jimkerkhoff.com/?s=triton+II You and your friend might enjoy it also. Keep looking and good luck! 73’s, Jim WB0MMC

      1. Thanks for your reply, Jim. I appreciate it. I’m reaching out to some other sources for this part but still haven’t had any luck. You made a great post on the restoration of the Triton II. Learned a lot!

        Best regards and 73
        Keith
        KE4CDR
        keverett458429@gmail.com

  2. Hi – Nice work! Nice presentation too!
    For those with the 540 (with analog dial, not the 544 with digital readout) – If you ever have the front panel off, I highly recommend rewiring the three dial bulbs IN SERIES. Ten-Tec wired two in series, and one in series with a resistor. Wiring them in series reduces the voltage across each bulb, extending their life tremendously. The difference in brightness is hardly noticeable.
    If you take the front panel off just once you’ll appreciate never having to do it again to change bulbs!!!
    You could go a step further and replace the bulbs with LEDs in series. You’ll have to calculate a dropping resistor for them.
    Both of these save energy, giving your power supply a tiny bit more “headroom.” I have replaced the bulbs in my 252G power supply with LEDs.

    1. Good tip, Ken. It’s especially helpful since those tiny bulbs can be hard to find. I have a supply for now, but I’ll file it away for future use. Glad you found the post interesting and thanks for commenting.

      73’s — Jim

  3. I have quite a line up of these style rigs. Still got one Argo 509 after giving a second one to a well-pleased friend. I have the original Triton I (50-watt output) I bought back in the late 1970’s. My Triton II was free… torn down into pieces in a post office carrier box. Got it running and spent $18 on parts for an NVIS antenna, and worked single band WAS on two nets, and general WAS on another net… called it my $18 ham station. Then found a Triton IV a few years later and been using it. For those with the Model 544 model after the Triton IV was renamed, be aware of one important difference between the two “same radios” — the power connector on the two use different pinouts! Why TT would do that is a mystery, but there it is.

Was this interesting or helpful? Share your thoughts . . .

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.